The Atlantic is re-running (via Arts & Letters) their in-depth piece on wine critic Robert Parker. In four parts, it details how Parker has become the most influential critic in the world—by talking about wine. Parker has a widely read newsletter (with over 40,000 subscribers) and he has raised the ire of French vineyard owners (especially in Burguny and Bordeaux) who can’t stand the idea that superb wine can be produced in any fashion other than their own “big business” style. It figures they look down their noses at garage-scale American wine producers. Slate, however, isn’t so hot on Parker…